彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)面料(liao)的(de)(de)功(gong)能(neng)性(xing)(xing)和時髦(mao)性(xing)(xing)在紡織市場上越(yue)來(lai)越(yue)重要，但彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)面料(liao)對染色工藝(yi)要求(qiu)非常有(you)講究，彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)纖維及其織物的(de)(de)性(xing)(xing)能(neng)影響(xiang)著從預處理(li)到織物整理(li)等各個工序。本文大耀紡織的(de)(de)小編歸納了彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)面料(liao)染整處理(li)應注意的(de)(de)關鍵性(xing)(xing)因(yin)素、有(you)關產品的(de)(de)選(xuan)擇及工藝(yi)參數的(de)(de)推(tui)薦(jian)，特分(fen)享(xiang)給朋友們(men)。

　　彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)面料(liao)(liao)(liao)及原料(liao)(liao)(liao)不(bu)(bu)宜長(chang)期貯存。在(zai)紡紗和絡(luo)筒時(shi)，用(yong)(yong)大量的(de)(de)(de)(de)硅酮油(you)(you)和其(qi)他潤(run)(run)滑(hua)劑(ji)提(ti)高可(ke)紡性(xing)(xing);在(zai)機織(zhi)和針織(zhi)時(shi)，用(yong)(yong)更(geng)多的(de)(de)(de)(de)油(you)(you)劑(ji)和助(zhu)劑(ji)保(bao)證其(qi)良好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)加工性(xing)(xing)能(neng)(neng)。在(zai)長(chang)期貯存期間，這(zhe)些產品(pin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)降(jiang)(jiang)解引起織(zhi)物泛黃，直至彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)下降(jiang)(jiang)。“常溫硬化”是一(yi)個(ge)潛在(zai)性(xing)(xing)問題(ti)，它能(neng)(neng)引起持久的(de)(de)(de)(de)折(zhe)痕。如果織(zhi)物貯存期超過3個(ge)月，則應密閉(bi)在(zai)不(bu)(bu)透(tou)氣、不(bu)(bu)透(tou)光(guang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)塑料(liao)(liao)(liao)薄膜(mo)內。彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)紗總是在(zai)一(yi)定(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)張力下織(zhi)入織(zhi)品(pin)中(zhong)，熱(re)定(ding)形可(ke)避免(mian)染(ran)(ran)色(se)時(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)條痕和皺折(zhe)，確保(bao)良好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)尺寸穩定(ding)性(xing)(xing)。通(tong)常在(zai)180-190℃下熱(re)定(ding)形30-45秒(miao)。較高的(de)(de)(de)(de)溫度(du)引起彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)纖維變黃和彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)下降(jiang)(jiang)。因為(wei)硅酮油(you)(you)和潤(run)(run)滑(hua)劑(ji)會(hui)破壞染(ran)(ran)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)勻染(ran)(ran)性(xing)(xing)，導(dao)致色(se)牢度(du)降(jiang)(jiang)低(di)，所以(yi)彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)面料(liao)(liao)(liao)染(ran)(ran)色(se)前(qian)應盡量將(jiang)其(qi)除(chu)去(qu)。彈(dan)性(xing)(xing)纖維混紡坯布染(ran)(ran)色(se)前(qian)油(you)(you)劑(ji)殘(can)留物通(tong)常是看不(bu)(bu)見的(de)(de)(de)(de)，但(dan)是金屬絡(luo)合染(ran)(ran)料(liao)(liao)(liao)是親(qin)油(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)，即坯布上的(de)(de)(de)(de)油(you)(you)斑在(zai)染(ran)(ran)色(se)工序一(yi)開始就與其(qi)親(qin)合。當染(ran)(ran)色(se)溫度(du)升(sheng)高，油(you)(you)劑(ji)被(bei)乳(ru)化，但(dan)是染(ran)(ran)料(liao)(liao)(liao)保(bao)留下來(lai)造成不(bu)(bu)可(ke)消除(chu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)染(ran)(ran)斑。洗滌后的(de)(de)(de)(de)漂(piao)清不(bu)(bu)能(neng)(neng)用(yong)(yong)冷水(shui)，因為(wei)這(zhe)樣(yang)會(hui)使乳(ru)化的(de)(de)(de)(de)油(you)(you)劑(ji)會(hui)再(zai)一(yi)次沉淀出來(lai)，造成紡織(zhi)品(pin)上的(de)(de)(de)(de)斑疵。最有(you)效的(de)(de)(de)(de)方法是用(yong)(yong)熱(re)水(shui)徹底地溢流(liu)漂(piao)清，用(yong)(yong)冷水(shui)進行最終的(de)(de)(de)(de)漂(piao)清。

　　彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)面(mian)料在(zai)染(ran)色(se)加(jia)工過程中，高溫(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)和(he)機械應力可(ke)造成彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)損失。為了(le)要保存(cun)其(qi)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)，彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)面(mian)料中彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)含量(liang)超(chao)(chao)過10%應該在(zai)緩流噴射機上染(ran)色(se)，彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)含量(liang)小于10%的(de)(de)(de)織物可(ke)在(zai)空氣(qi)噴射機上染(ran)色(se)。聚(ju)(ju)(ju)酰胺(an)(an)與(yu)(yu)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)混(hun)(hun)紡織物的(de)(de)(de)濕牢(lao)度等級比(bi)純(chun)紡聚(ju)(ju)(ju)酰胺(an)(an)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)低，經驗表明以堿性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)ph值染(ran)色(se)是(shi)降低lanaset染(ran)料盡(jin)染(ran)速度、改善勻染(ran)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)的(de)(de)(de)切實可(ke)行的(de)(de)(de)方(fang)法。聚(ju)(ju)(ju)酯(zhi)(zhi)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)正(zheng)越(yue)來越(yue)多(duo)地用(yong)(yong)于彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)面(mian)料。這對染(ran)色(se)是(shi)一種挑戰：一方(fang)面(mian)，分(fen)散(san)(san)染(ran)料需要高溫(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)，另一方(fang)面(mian)，彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)在(zai)溫(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)度超(chao)(chao)過115℃則大(da)減。加(jia)工這種混(hun)(hun)紡織物的(de)(de)(de)另一個(ge)障(zhang)礙(ai)是(shi)分(fen)散(san)(san)染(ran)料大(da)量(liang)地沾染(ran)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)且其(qi)濕牢(lao)度很低。新的(de)(de)(de)分(fen)散(san)(san)促染(ran)劑cibapb允許在(zai)不(bu)同溫(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)度下(xia)使用(yong)(yong)terasilw染(ran)料，且保證彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)不(bu)受損失。所推薦的(de)(de)(de)pb用(yong)(yong)量(liang)依所需的(de)(de)(de)色(se)澤(ze)濃度而定。聚(ju)(ju)(ju)酯(zhi)(zhi)與(yu)(yu)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)混(hun)(hun)紡織物染(ran)色(se)后需進行徹(che)底的(de)(de)(de)還原(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)清洗(xi)。通(tong)常在(zai)70℃的(de)(de)(de)溫(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)度下(xia)用(yong)(yong)保險(xian)粉、燒堿和(he)os完成聚(ju)(ju)(ju)酯(zhi)(zhi)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)還原(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)清洗(xi)。為了(le)清除彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)上的(de)(de)(de)分(fen)散(san)(san)染(ran)料，溫(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)度需在(zai)80℃-90℃之(zhi)間，普(pu)通(tong)的(de)(de)(de)保險(xian)粉反(fan)應太快，因(yin)此(ci)是(shi)無效(xiao)的(de)(de)(de)。如果要從彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)上除去分(fen)散(san)(san)染(ran)料，那么(me)os是(shi)還原(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)清洗(xi)唯一有效(xiao)的(de)(de)(de)產品，適(shi)當(dang)的(de)(de)(de)溫(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)度、穩(wen)定的(de)(de)(de)保險(xian)粉和(he)良好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)分(fen)散(san)(san)劑將(jiang)確定最合(he)適(shi)的(de)(de)(de)還原(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)清洗(xi)。

　　在纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)素與彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)混(hun)(hun)紡(fang)的(de)(de)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)面(mian)料(liao)中，彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)含(han)量愈(yu)(yu)高(gao)，風險(xian)也愈(yu)(yu)大(da)(da)。在纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)素纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)固色前仔細選擇(ze)確保(bao)易泳(yong)移的(de)(de)活性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)料(liao)是獲(huo)得(de)良(liang)(liang)好(hao)(hao)效果(guo)的(de)(de)唯一方法。與其(qi)(qi)(qi)它活性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)料(liao)相比(bi)，使(shi)(shi)用(yong)cibacronls染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)料(liao)可大(da)(da)幅減(jian)少(shao)用(yong)鹽量;因為這類(lei)染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)料(liao)對(dui)(dui)浴(yu)比(bi)變(bian)化的(de)(de)敏(min)感性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)低(di)，所以是染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)素與彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)混(hun)(hun)紡(fang)織物的(de)(de)理(li)想選擇(ze)。尤其(qi)(qi)(qi)對(dui)(dui)再生纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)素纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)，推薦用(yong)染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)色中分(fen)(fen)(fen)批添加鹽的(de)(de)工(gong)藝，染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)再生纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)素纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)只需要(yao)平(ping)常染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)棉推薦鹽量的(de)(de)70%。羊毛類(lei)的(de)(de)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)面(mian)料(liao)由于(yu)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)含(han)量的(de)(de)增加獲(huo)得(de)了附加的(de)(de)功能性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)良(liang)(liang)好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)使(shi)(shi)用(yong)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)能。彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)與羊毛混(hun)(hun)合(he)提(ti)高(gao)了其(qi)(qi)(qi)尺寸穩定性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)抗皺性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)。在染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)色工(gong)藝中，通(tong)常推薦使(shi)(shi)用(yong)匹染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)。良(liang)(liang)好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)表面(mian)勻染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)需要(yao)泳(yong)移性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)料(liao)，cibane-olan染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)料(liao)很適合(he)，在ph值為3.5時使(shi)(shi)用(yong)，甚(shen)至在傳統的(de)(de)深色中，也可得(de)到(dao)滿意的(de)(de)色牢度(du)。更棘(ji)手的(de)(de)是聚(ju)酯(zhi)、羊毛與彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)一起混(hun)(hun)紡(fang)的(de)(de)織物。由于(yu)羊毛對(dui)(dui)強(qiang)堿性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)條(tiao)件的(de)(de)敏(min)感性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)，因此，強(qiang)化還原(yuan)清(qing)洗除(chu)去彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)上的(de)(de)分(fen)(fen)(fen)散(san)染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)料(liao)較(jiao)困難。尤其(qi)(qi)(qi)是染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)黑(hei)色和(he)藏青色更受限制。分(fen)(fen)(fen)散(san)促染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)劑(ji)的(de)(de)使(shi)(shi)用(yong)能保(bao)證(zheng)良(liang)(liang)好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)重現性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)并減(jian)少(shao)混(hun)(hun)紡(fang)組(zu)份羊毛和(he)彈(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)(dan)性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)分(fen)(fen)(fen)散(san)染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)料(liao)的(de)(de)染(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)(ran)斑。在弱堿性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(氨調(diao)整ph值為8.5)條(tiao)件下用(yong)穩定的(de)(de)保(bao)險(xian)粉以45-50℃適度(du)還原(yuan)后處理(li)20分(fen)(fen)(fen)鐘來保(bao)證(zheng)濕牢度(du)特性(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)的(de)(de)提(ti)高(gao)。

　　混紡類(lei)彈(dan)性面料的(de)(de)(de)預(yu)處(chu)理、染色和整(zheng)理，諸(zhu)如回縮(suo)、熱定(ding)形和洗滌等干濕預(yu)處(chu)理取決于(yu)織(zhi)物結(jie)構及其對機械(xie)應力的(de)(de)(de)敏感性。合適(shi)的(de)(de)(de)機器對高彈(dan)性的(de)(de)(de)保持(chi)、良好的(de)(de)(de)勻染性和重現性非(fei)常關鍵。了解所(suo)有的(de)(de)(de)參數，正(zheng)確的(de)(de)(de)產品(pin)選(xuan)擇和仔細的(de)(de)(de)工(gong)藝調整(zheng)將有助(zhu)于(yu)彈(dan)性紡織(zhi)品(pin)獲(huo)得最佳性能。希望(wang)南通(tong)百泰(tai)紡織(zhi)小編(bian)的(de)(de)(de)分享能為朋友(you)們提供一點幫助(zhu)。